The 2025 edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva, marks a significant milestone for the global watchmaking industry. With 60 prestigious maisons in attendance and expanded programming aimed at public engagement, this year’s fair reaffirmed Geneva’s position as the world capital of haute horlogerie.
A Showcase of Watchmaking Mastery
From storied maisons to avant-garde independents, brands unveiled exceptional creations that balanced tradition with innovation:
- Rolex introduced the Land-Dweller, its first entirely new sports model in more than a decade. Equipped with a groundbreaking “high-frequency” calibre and the brand’s proprietary Dynapulse escapement, the Land-Dweller is offered in platinum, rose gold, and “white Rolesor,” in 36mm and 40mm formats. Its angular case and slim Jubilee bracelet evoke the spirit of the vintage Oysterquartz.
- Tudor presented updated icons, including the Black Bay 68, now in a 43mm case with 200m water resistance, and the Pelagos Ultra, a professional-grade diver rated to 1,000m. The beloved Black Bay 58 emerged with a burgundy sunray dial, while the Black Bay Chrono returns with panda and reverse panda dial options.
- Vacheron Constantin astonished the horological world with the Les Cabinotiers “Solaria”, an ultra-complicated wristwatch featuring 41 complications—including astronomical indications—housed in a movement comprising 1,521 components.
- IWC Schaffhausen reintroduced the Ingenieur in bold new configurations, including black ceramic and 35mm gold variants, embracing a more fashion-forward and inclusive design direction.
- Cartier brought back the enigmatic Tank à Guichets, while Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the Reverso Tribute Nonantième, a poetic piece that bridges fine artistry with technical mastery.
- Chopard captivated with a Jump Hour rendered in straw marquetry, and A. Lange & Söhne debuted an Odysseus in Honeygold, blending German precision with elegant sportiness.
Material Innovation and Design Trends
One of this year’s most visible trends is the increasing use of ceramic cases in luxury timepieces. Notably, Chanel introduced the J12 Bleu, a dark blue ceramic piece developed over five years. Other maisons—Zenith, Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Audemars Piguet—unveiled ceramic editions in a broad palette of colours and finishes. Concurrently, smaller case diameters and skeletonized dials gained further traction, highlighting the industry’s turn toward wearability and mechanical transparency.
Artistic and Independent Expressions
Independent brands delivered some of the event’s most expressive and technically compelling releases:
- Louis Moinet honoured its founder with the 1816 Chronograph Tribute, a classically styled timepiece that celebrates the invention of the chronograph. The design unites traditional watchmaking with contemporary engineering.
- U-Boat presented the futuristic U-65, featuring a hyper-domed sapphire crystal and a multi-layered skeleton dial. Its dramatic, curved silhouette underscores the brand’s commitment to bold, architectural forms.
- ArtyA SA unveiled the Purity Stairway to Heaven collection, featuring 40mm open-worked cases in ceramic and steel. Signature crown guards and artistic dial execution distinguish these pieces as statements of innovation and design freedom.
- Van Cleef & Arpels mesmerised with the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate, a lyrical automaton that brings to life a romantic Parisian rendezvous on the dial. The house also relaunched the iconic Cadenas watch, showcasing snow-set diamonds and princess-cut sapphires in a yellow gold case, reinforcing its status as a pioneer in jewelled timepieces.
A City Transformed
Geneva itself played an active role through the “In the City” initiative, running from 1 to 7 April. The programme brought horology to the public through curated exhibitions, interactive demonstrations, and artisanal workshops. A highlight was the “Nocturne In The City” event on 3 April, where Bon Entendeur performed live at Quai Général-Guisan, drawing large crowds and creating a festive, inclusive atmosphere.
