This decision may not come as a shock to industry insiders, yet it still marks a significant moment in the luxury watch world. A brand with a long-standing heritage, considerable investment, and premium distribution channels failed to carve out a sustainable niche. So, what went wrong? And what does this move say about Rolex’s approach to its new acquisition?
Employees were informed of the decision earlier today, with closures expected to roll out soon. The remaining Carl F. Bucherer boutiques will be shuttered, and Bucherer’s retail stores will clear their shelves of CFB watches to make room for other brands.
Both Rolex and Bucherer have remained tight-lipped about the decision. Rolex, when pressed for comment, redirected inquiries to Bucherer—perhaps an indication of just how little strategic importance Carl F. Bucherer holds for the Swiss giant.
The numbers tell a clear story. Despite annual sales ranging between 80 and 100 million Swiss francs in good years, Carl F. Bucherer never turned a profit. Sources suggest that over the years, the brand accumulated losses totalling approximately 250 million francs. Even during its strongest periods—when it ranked as Bucherer’s second-best-selling brand after Rolex—it still failed to break even.
For Rolex, a company synonymous with precision, efficiency, and commercial success, such persistent underperformance was an unacceptable liability. While the brand is owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, making it technically a charitable entity, it operates with a business-first mindset. Carl F. Bucherer, from Rolex’s perspective, was little more than an expensive remnant of the Bucherer acquisition—one that simply did not fit into its long-term vision.
The more pressing question is why Bucherer never made this call earlier. The answer lies in the deep personal attachment of Jörg Bucherer.
Under his leadership, Carl F. Bucherer was treated as a personal passion rather than a purely commercial enterprise. Insiders suggest that no one within the company dared challenge his devotion to the brand, even as financial losses mounted. Effectively, Jörg Bucherer acted as both the brand’s safety net and its primary investor, ensuring its survival long past the point where most companies would have pulled the plug.
However, his passing in 2023 changed the landscape entirely. With Bucherer now under Rolex’s ownership, the brand faced a colder, more analytical assessment—one that quickly exposed the unsustainable reality of CFB’s business model. The decision to shut it down was swift and, from Rolex’s standpoint, inevitable.
The Fallout: What Happens Next?
The discontinuation of Carl F. Bucherer affects around 100 employees. Reports indicate that Rolex will attempt to absorb some of these workers into its operations, particularly those based at CFB’s production facility in Lengnau near Biel. Many of them—potentially as many as 70—are expected to transition to Rolex’s new manufacturing site in Bulle.
As for Carl F. Bucherer timepieces, their future on the secondary market remains uncertain. Historically, the brand benefited from its association with Rolex, with some dealers allegedly bundling CFB watches with sought-after Rolex models to drive sales. However, this practice led to a situation where pre-owned Carl F. Bucherer pieces now sell at discounts of up to 90% on resale platforms—a stark contrast to Rolex’s near-unbreakable hold on market value.
Despite its privileged access to Bucherer’s extensive distribution network, including approximately 250 stores worldwide, Carl F. Bucherer struggled to maintain desirability among collectors. Even with strong designs and in-house movements, it lacked the prestige and demand necessary to justify its continued existence in a fiercely competitive market.
The demise of Carl F. Bucherer under Rolex’s ownership underscores a hard truth about the watch industry: even heritage and distribution advantages do not guarantee success. While the brand had the potential to thrive, it never quite resonated with consumers in the way its leadership had hoped.
For Rolex, this decision reinforces its commitment to a streamlined, highly profitable portfolio. The company already has Tudor as a more accessible sister brand—there was simply no room, or need, for another. Carl F. Bucherer, despite its long-standing history and craftsmanship, was ultimately an outlier in a business that demands efficiency and brand clarity.
The watch industry will move on, as it always does. But for those who have followed Carl F. Bucherer’s journey, this marks the end of an era—one fuelled by passion, but ultimately undone by business realities.
